Skip to content

Hand-Building and Situation (2)

Next, let us think about hand-building that responds to the table situation. There are times when you should look at the tiles already discarded on the table and the tiles other players have called, and adjust your hand-building according to that situation.

React to Thin Tiles

When you look at the discard rows, first check how many of the tiles you need have already been discarded.
This is the most basic part of situational judgment.

Example 1

The question here is which souzu ryanmen acceptance you should dislike more.

The answer is on the table.
If 1s is already out in two copies, then naturally you should cut 3s.

Pay Attention to Which Suit Is Strong

Example 2

The dealer has called the guest wind West.
That means they are going for a souzu Honitsu.

Your own hand is one-shanten with the dora meld already complete.
Since you are over-complete in melds, the choice is which kanchan to remove: the souzu one or the pinzu one.

Both suits have one visible tile already,
but what really matters is how many pinzu and souzu have been discarded on the table as a whole.

So many pinzu have been cut that it tells you the other players do not need pinzu.
By contrast, because so few souzu are visible, it is easy to infer that souzu are still being used in their hands.

When many tiles of a suit have been discarded like this, we say that suit is cheap in the field.
When almost none of that suit have been discarded, we say that suit is expensive in the field.

In general, waiting on a suit that is cheap in the field makes it easier to win.

Even if a kan 3p can have at most three tiles left, it can still be called a good wait.
That is because a suit that is cheap in the field is not only awkward for other players to keep,
but also more likely to become one-chance or no-chance,
so the actual winning rate can be higher than the raw tile count suggests.

So the strong play here is to discard:

1s3s

If you become overly scared of the dealer's flush and start touching the pinzu side instead,
that is too timid.

If you riichi on a kan 2s wait, it overlaps in suit with the dealer's Honitsu,
so you can expect almost no ron from either side.
That actually makes it more dangerous and more likely to run into the dealer's counterattack.

React to Open Hands

Example 3
Shimocha
HiddenHiddenHiddenHiddenHiddenHiddenHidden Chi Red 2m1m3m Pon 9pRed 9p9p

You
5m6m7m3p3p3p4p6p7p8p Chi Red 7p6p8p Tsumo 8m

Against an obviously Chanta-type open hand like this,
if neither tile has passed, then of course you must cut 5m.


Example 4
Kamicha
HiddenHiddenHiddenHiddenHiddenHiddenHidden Pon Red 9s9s9s Pon 3p3pRed 3p

You
2m3m4m6m7p7p8p8p8p9p Pon EastEastRed East Tsumo 7m

When there is an obvious Toitoi-style open hand on the table,
then naturally the unseen tile is much more dangerous as a shanpon wait.

So in Example 4, if you have to discard one of them, you should cut 7p.

If three copies of 8p are already visible while 9p has not appeared even once on the table,
then it is natural to think that someone is holding 9p as a pair.


Original Japanese page: http://beginners.biz/joukyou/joukyou04.html